Sealing Granite

Have questions about sealing your granite?
Myth #1: Marble and granite sealers protect the surface against stains.... sort of, but not exactly.
As stated, a sealer will only slow down the natural rate at which a stone absorbs a liquid. Some stones are so dense (soapstone, many granites, some travertines, etc.) that liquids just cannot penetrate... or stain... while others will stain if a spill isn't wiped up immediately.
A sealer simply gives you more time to clean up the mess before it stains and keeps the stain near the surface, so it can be more easily removed.
Interesting: Polishing stone also helps to decrease the absorbency rate, but this is not the main reason to do it. Polishing brings out the color in a stone. However, a polish can wear off, so it's recommended for floors.
Myth #2: A granite sealer is what makes the surface shiny....
Completely and totally false. The shine or "polish" on the surface of any stone is created by intense friction and abrasion. It's a mechanical process and not a chemical one.
Chemicals however, particularly acids (like alcohol, vinegar, coffee, sodas) can damage or essentially remove the polish on certain calcite based stones like marble, travertine and limestone.
It's a reaction between the calcite and the acid. It's called "etching" and it's the primary reason such stones are not recommended for use in the kitchen and why you should test your sample prior to installation.
The "stains" that result are the clear or lighter colored "water spots" or "glass rings" that are commonly reported with such stones. But they are not "stains." Nothing is absorbed into the stone and sealers have nothing at all to do with this problem.
It is physical damage to the surface of the stone. In very mild cases a marble polish may restore the surface, but very often a professional must be called in to re-polish the surface. And that's the answer to....

Myth #3: Sealers protect against glass rings and water stains....
No, only coasters will.
Granite sealer should be applied to all natural stones. Some darker (many blacks), denser granites do not require sealing, travertine/limestone often doesn't need sealing especially when polished and neither does soapstone (although sealing and/or oiling is recommended mainly for cosmetic reasons).
Sealing your stone countertops is a simple wipe on, wipe off procedure. It's not much different than what you do to clean your countertops on a daily basis or painting a wall. It's not complicated and no special knowledge is required. So relax. You have nothing to worry about. The key is to completely remove any sealer residue from the surface after it has absorbed into the pores below the surface.
Frequency of granite sealer application for your particular stone really depends on:

• 1. The type of stone (porous or dense)
• 2. The quality of the granite sealer applied

Light colored granites and softer stones such as marble, some travertine and limestone and onyx are more porous and should be sealed every 1-3 years.
Dark colored granites in the browns and blacks can be sealed less frequently: every 3-5 years or . . . not at all. But remember, it depends on your particular stone so be sure to ask your supplier or fabricator and test as well.
Other Opinions: You may read elsewhere that if you are using a quality sealer such as MB or Stone Tech that you should only have to seal your stone upon installation, then not again for 5 or 10 years or even never again.
While in theory this may work and in practice it can be true for some stones, sealants do break down and degrade over time and it's certainly much easier and far less expensive to re-seal your stone pro-actively rather than paying for the hassle of removing stains or marble restoration.
The only real problem with this approach is sealing a stone that really doesn't need it in the first place.
Some dark granites, like Black Galaxie or Uba Tuba are so dense and non-porous that a sealer will never penetrate. If applied it just sits on the surface and eventually dulls the finish. It can be removed but, what a pain. Best to ask your installer and test to see if your particular granite needs sealing.

Quartz vs. Granite

First of all, the makers of engineered quartz stone have made a much bigger issue out of applying granite sealer than it really is.
Quartz countertops are excellent and you can't blame them for trying to effectively market their product, but the issue of sealing and granite counter top care is really a minor advantage of quartz when compared with the major advantage granite has in natural beauty, uniqueness and the quality and quantity of colors and patterns available.
All other qualities and characteristics of each product are the same. After all, engineered stone is 93% quartz which comes from granite.
Even though Silestone, Zodiac, Cambria and other makers of quartz counter tops try to convince you that applying granite sealer is a complicated hassle--it just isn't true. It's only a marketing story.
Applying granite sealer is a simple "wipe on, wipe off" procedure and you should not let it be a factor when deciding whether to install granite or quartz counter tops. And truth be told... it is possible to stain quartz and the resin in quartz is more susceptible to heat damage than granite.

Taking Care of your Granite

Refer to:
http://www.countertopspecialty.com/granite-counter-top-maintenance.html  and :  http://www.countertopspecialty.com/kitchen-counter-top.html
Many myths about the qualities of different counter top materials and lots of false or conflicting information about granite counter top maintenance and sealing are out there.
So, it's easy to get confused, frustrated and worry that you are going to accidentally ruin your countertops, that granite care is a big hassle or that you need an army of professionals to do it.
You don't.
Remember that your countertops and floors are made of STONE! Think Egyptian Pyramids and Roman Coliseum.
Stone countertops and floors are very durable, resilient and age beautifully. In fact, they will outlast you and your house!

If you utilize the granite care and cleaning procedures that follow for all your countertops . . . no matter what type of stone or surface . . . you'll eliminate most potential problems without ever having to think too hard about it or worry that you may be causing damage.
Do: Blot up spills immediately.
Acidic substances like wine, coffee, fruit juices, tomato sauce and sodas can etch the polish or stain the surface. Cooking oils may also leave a stain if not wiped up.
Do: Clean surfaces using a sponge or soft cloth.
Preferrably use a specially formulated stone cleaner, but warm water and a basic liquid dish soap will do for quick clean-ups. However, repeated or excessive use of soap will cause build-up and dull your countertop's shine.
Simple Green is another option (see: "Good Advice" below).
Do: Use coasters under all glasses, bottles and cans.
Will a beer bottle set on your granite for five minutes leave a ring? Not if it was sealed properly, but it would on marble.
Many common foods and drinks contain acids that may etch the polish or damage the surface. So for easy solid surface, natural stone and granite counter top maintenance, always use coasters no matter what the surface.
For glasses and dishes that pile up on the kitchen countertop (which should be granite) and around the kitchen sink, just be sure to rinse out with water before letting them set for any length of time.
Do: Use trivets and hot pads under pots, pans and dinnerware.
Yes, you can take a hot pot off the stove and put it right on granite, quartz or soapstone without any problems. Not true for all other surfaces. But you must consider other issues as well.
Grit that gets trapped between the pot and the countertop surface may scratch the surface--even granite. Granite is very hard and can take tons of abuse without any damage, but it does contain some softer minerals that could be chipped or scratched. The likelihood is pretty slim, but it is possible. And ALL other surfaces are softer that granite. Better safe than sorry.
If it does happen, don't fret too much. Most chips and scratches can be easily repaired, but it's best to avoid them by following the granite counter top care tips.
Also, once you remove the hot pan from the countertop the surface will be very hot and may burn.
Do: Use cutting boards.
Again, avoid the possibility of scratching the surface and protect your knives. Cutting on stone will dull and damage your knives' edges quickly.

Comparing Granite to Other Countertops

Refer to:
http://www.countertopspecialty.com/kitchen-counter-top.html

Comparing granite to marble, travertine, limestone, and quartz, you may have found there are many marketing messages on the internet which present conflicting or confusing information.

Counter Top Choices

Quartz or Silestone vs. Granite

Granite

• Granite offers almost unlimited choice in colors and patterns.
• Granite is heat, scratch and dent resistent. Truly almost impossible to damage in this way.
• Granite is also chemical resistent, but requires sealing for optimum protection.
• Granite will have visible seams on most countertops.

Marble Countertops

Some Do’s & Don’t with Marble

Do use corn starch powder and a chamo cloth to make the marble shine.

Do use the Magic Eraser for cleaning tubs to get rust stains off of marble.  It is slightly abrasive without any chemicals that might harm it.

Do use this homemade recipe to remove many stains on marble:
Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon cornstarch
• 1 teaspoon 3% hydrogen peroxide

Mix cornstarch and peroxide to form a paste. Cover the stain with the paste and let sit until dry (about an hour). Then remove the dried paste and rinse off the area.

General Cleaning:

Use care when cleaning marble.  Use hand dish soap (non citrus) and warm water.  Do small spots.  Marble which has become dull, can be livened up by using a commercial marble cleaner and polish.  Buy from a company that sells marble.

Putty powder (tin oxide) can be used to polish dulled or etched surfaces, rubbing on with a damp cloth.  Folding and refolding to clean damp areas. 

Don’t allow acidic food like vinegar, lemons or tomatoes to come in contact with the surface, acid corrodes marble.

Don’t Use Acids- chemicals that will burn and dull the stone.

• Drano
• Lime Away- as an example, this will eat marble and take the shine away immediately
• Calcium, Lime, Rust Remover (CLR)
• Kaboom & Zap- this will also eat marble and take the shine away immediately
• Vinegar
• Fruit Juices
• Alcoholic beverages
• Most household cleaning products

Don’t Use Alkalis
DO NOT USE Windex. Windex- attacks color minerals of the stone. Black for example will turn grey over time. If anyone ever says they have been using windex for years and nothing has happened, have them compare it to a fresh piece of marble and they will be able to notice the difference immediately. 409, Fantastic, Kaboom & Zap, Strippers, Degreasers, Ammonia, most household cleaning products.

Don’t Use Soap & Water
- soap leaves a film and water leaves mineral deposits both of which cause dulling.
Don’t Use Murphy's Oil Soap & Pine Sol
- these two products can stain the stone and darken the color of the stone over time. They will also create a very slippery surface and can leave a filmy haze on the stone.
Don’t Use Bleach & Water
Bleach will bleach the stone which can never be corrected. Check all products for bleach content.